Peak Climbing in Nepal
Mardi Himal peak climbing (5587m) is located in the east of the Modi Khola, across the valley from Hiunchuli. Jimmy Roberts who summit Mardi Himal by east flank route in 1961. It is separated from Machhapuchhre ridge by a col and usual route of ascent reaches this col (5,200m /17,060 ft.) and reaches the summit via a route on its east flank. The climb begins by heading steeply towards the col on the connecting ridge between Mardi Himal and Machhapuchhre. High camp is usually placed just below the final steep (45 degrees) couloirs leading to the col (4,650m /15,256 ft.) From high camp, climb to the col and turn west, ascending steep snow slopes to the summit. Descend the same route.
A trek to the Mardi Himal takes us into one of the most unexplored areas off the beaten track of the Himalayas. The route passes possibly the second largest Gurung village in Nepal. It is locate to the north east of Pokhara, in the shadow of Annapurna II and Lamjung Himal. Above the village a marvelous panoramic view of the peaks of Annapurna and Lamjung can be seen. The first few days uphill as the trek winds along the ridge through forests of birch, rhododendrons, hemlock, and pines and finally brings you right in front of Machhapuchare and Annapurna South with Mardi Khola River winding its way through the valley thousands of feet below. It is less touristy area but most enjoyable with mountain.
- Sightseeing tour of historical, cultural, religious heritages sites of Kathmandu valley
- Lake valley of Pokhara city
- Splendid views of Annapurna ranges
- Different community with the majority of Tamang, Gurung, Bramhin
- Totally up-spoilt trekking area and less visited trekking route
- Real peacefulness and wilderness experience.
- Wildlife observation & dense rhododendron forest.
- See traditional agriculture, watermill, honey hunting, cattle farming.
- Nepali traditional settlement.
- Different village with different culture and history
- Wildlife observation, flora & fauna, butterflies, many kinds of Rhododendrons.
- Summit Mardi Himal
- Best photographic site
|Trip Grade||Moderate to Adventures|
|Trip Duration||15 Nights/16 Days|
|Trip Start/Ends||Kathmandu-Pokhara- Odane Hill/Ghachok-Pokhara|
|Maximum Altitude||Mardi Himal (5587m)|
|Trip Cost||USD 1845 per passenger|
|Group Size||Minimum 2 upto 16 passengers|
|Accessibillity||Kathmandu 7-hrs drive to Pokhara and start trek, after the trek again drive back to Pokhara from the take out place|
|The Route||Maximum altitude Mardi Himal (5587m), 5/7-hrs average walk in a day, moderate deep forest trail.|
|Season||Sept – Nov/March - April|
|Permit Fee||Spring: (Mar-Apr-May) USD 250 – Autumn: (Sep-Oct-Nov) USD 125 – Winter: (Dec-Jan-Feb) USD 70 – Summer: (Jun-Jul-Aug) USD 70 per passenger and maximum number of members in a team is 15 people|
|Trip Valid||This offer is valid on reservations made from September through December 31, 2018.|
|Trip Facilities||Standard hotel in city, teahouse/lodges and tented accommodation during the climbing period.|
Upon arrival at Tribhuwan international airport, welcomed by our representative and transfer to hotel. The remainder of the afternoon is at leisure. A pre trip meeting and briefing will held all together with you at hotel about the daily program activities by company representative and your trip Leader/Guide where you can discuss your final questions all together.
After breakfast the day will start with a guided tour of Kathmandu's historical and spiritual key attractions; including the historic Kathmndu Durbar Square, the famous 'Monkey Temple' (Swayambunath) and then finally visit to Patan Durbar square which is situated the heart of the city constitutes the focus of visitor's attraction. In the evening there will be pre-trip discussion where you can meet your group leader/guide then you can ask any questions you may have.
Our guide pick you up from your hotel and transfer to the tourist bus station and drive approximately 6/7 hours to Pokhara (200km) through the beautiful river view & Nepalese countryside to reach the Pokhara. You will be arriving late afternoon at Pokhara approximately 2:00 O’clock and transfer to the hotel and rest of the time explores the surrounding lakeside areas. From the Pokhara valley you can see one of the most beautiful Himalayan panoramas in the world. The Annapurna and famous "Fishtail" mountain peak of Machhapuchhare tower over the tropical setting of Pokhara and you spend there will be the scenic highlight of your trip. You can also fly from Kathmandu to Pokhara which takes about 25 minutes.
After breakfast leaving the Mardi Pul, the trail then follows the east bank of the Mardi upstream before turning right up the hill to the Gurung village of Riban [1,676m]. You move ahead along the route which now becomes much steeper as it climbs uphill from the village, past a Chautara, shortly after which the trail divides. You take the right-hand fork which leads past some cow sheds. Until now the trail has been steep, it further becomes even steeper. You climb through bamboo forest towards a massive slab of grey rock. The path bears around to the left on to the rhododendron-covered ridge. Despite the steepness of the route, the ridgeline path offers ever-increasing views of the surrounding country. The path passes through a small clearing, Lalghar Kharka, and continues along a faint track to another clearing marking a high point on the ridge, which is Odane Hill.
The route continues along the ridgeline, but you need to be careful of false trails that can lead you astray. This day you are rewarded of the previous day's hard work with cool mountain air and a stunning panorama, with Machhapuchare [6997m] straight ahead. To the west is the Annapurna I [8091m], towering above Annapurna South [7219m] and Himchuli [6441m], the western bastion guarding the entrance to the Annapurna Sanctuary. To the east are views of the granite mass of Annapurna II [7,937m], Annapurna IV [7,525m] and Lamjung Himal [6886m], like the bulk of a sleeping elephant. Further east beyond the Marshyangdi are the triple giants of Manaslu [8,156m], Peak 29 [7,835m] and Himalchuli [7,540m]. Given that the distant summit snows of Dhaulagiri [8,167m] can also be seen, three of the world's highest mountains are on view along this trek. Eventually, a short, sharp climb leaves the main forest behind and leads you to a fine camping area amid alpine grassland. Today, you trek for about seven hours.
Leaving Kumai, you continue climbing steeply along the ridgeline to grazing pastures called Khorchon at around 3,568 meters. This day is a relatively short, although once again, steep trek.
The trail now leads steeply across a ridgeline to a hidden plateau beneath the south face of Mardi Himal and the South-West Ridge of Machhapuchhre; this is the 'Other Sanctuary', so called by Jimmy Roberts. You then trek along the trail to reach the Base Camp at around 4,100 meters.
From the Base Camp, you ascend steeply towards the col between the East Face of Mardi Himal and the connecting ridge of Machhapuchhre. A high camp can be placed at 4,650 meters. From camp, you reach a snow couloir leading to the col with a steep section of perhaps 45 degrees. At the col further steep snow slopes lead to the summit of Mardi Himal at around 5,555 meters. After enjoying your hard earned climb, you then descend by the same route to the Base Camp.We practice around the glacier for next day climb and Guide will teach you some methods/technique of climb and brief you details and overnight at camp.
As instruction by your guide, if the weather is perfect then early about 2/3 AM we wake up and have a breakfast then ready to leave for achieve your dream on the top of summit (5587m). This climb is of little technical difficulty, where route finding and effort are the major problems. The difficulties can be found in the couloir leading to the col below the East Face. Late in the day, this might present avalanche danger under fresh snow conditions.
This day we most kept for the reserve day for the unforeseen condition as weather problem or weakness then you can take this day as your reserve day.
Leaving the Base camp, you descend through the high grazing country called Khorchon and follow the same trails back to Kumai.
This day, you descend from Kumai which is relatively hard for weary knees, as much of the altitude gained is lost on the return to the valley. Descending on the ascent route you reach Odane Hill. Just before the high point a small track goes left down the east flank of the ridge, dropping steeply to grazing country and a good lunch spot at Hile. Later, the trail further descends more steeply to the prosperous farming village of Ghachok, in the valley of the Seti River. Today you descend for nearly eight hours o reach Ghachok.
This day is the last part of your trek, as you continue along the direct route crossing the Seti to the east bank and follow the main trail south. Descending down the east bank of the Seti, you finally reach Pokhara in about five hours. Once you reach Pokhara, you can relax amidst the stunning natural beauty of the city
Pokhara drive to Kathmandu or extend other activities. Combine with other trip from Pokhara like white water rafting and Jungle safari tour to Chitwan National Park
This full day at leisure to rest, relax or explore the local area in Kathmandu or do a bit of last minute shopping. You also have the option of doing some sight-seeing.
After breakfast you will have some free time until the time to leave the international airport for your final departure.
- Documents: Mardi Himal Peak special permit, National Park entrance permit & TIMS card
- Activities: Sightseeing, trekking and climbing trip as per itinerary.
- Equipment: All necessary camping equipments, kitchen utilizes and sleeping bag if necessary.
- Accommodation: 4 night’s hotel in Kathmandu, 2 night hotel in Pokhara and 9 ights lodges/Tent during trekking.
- Food: Full board on teahouse/Camping [/lieakfast, lunch and dinner] during the trekking and 4 /lieakfasts and one farewell Dinner in Kathmandu.
- Staffs: Group Leader/Guide, Climbing Sherpa and necessary supporter
- Transportation: Arrival/Departure transfer and surface road-head transportation.
- Company & Government’s service charge: All applicable Government taxes & official service charges. And Crew’s, daily wages/salary, food, equipment, air and road-head transportation
- Kathmandu to Lukla and return flight to Kathmandu
- Travel insurance covering with emergency Helicopter rescue
- Personal travel, trekking and climbing equipments
- Lunch and Dinner while in City
- Bar bills and Beverages
- Tips/Gratuities for trekking crews
- Temple and Monastery entrance fee while sightseeing in city
- Optional activities
- And unforeseen expenses which are out of control by Nepal Adventure Point
Arrival Information: We don't expect any problems, and nor should you, but if for any reason you are unable to commence your trip as scheduled, as soon as possible please contact us at email@example.com or call us at +9779851050327 as emergency contact. Our airport representative will be waiting with your Name or Nepal Adventure Point sign on it. Please check carefully once you exit the baggage hall as there seem to be hundreds of people waiting outside in the arrival gate and have not made contact with our representative within 30 minutes , we recommend that you make your own way to the hotel and we will pay you back taxi cost if this occurs.
Pre-meeting & trip briefing: On this climbing and trek, we give a short brief about Mardi Himal Peak Climbing trip at hotel on the same day of your arrival and introduce by your group leader and team members. At the mean time, we will provide an opportunity for individuals to ask questions about your trip. Pre-trip meeting covers the information regarding the personal equipment, acclimatization among others. We believe that pre-trip meeting is very important in order to better preparation of the trip.
Service Level: This trip is leveled as a standard which means standard hotel rooms are provided with breakfast, sightseeing tours and guest houses and lodges with private room with share bathroom.
Group Size & group joining: The minimum group size is 4 and the maximum is 16. However, if you'd like to make a group booking for more than that, we will be happy to arrange this for you. Our entire trip is a group joining basis unless any one does not request the private or the personal trip.
Important Stuffs: Mardi Himal peak permits, National park permit and TIMS card required for Mardi Himal Peak Climbing trip so we suggest you to post us 4 passport-size photos copies of passport & visa (If you already have), insurance policy. You should also have contact numbers of next to kin, Bank and insurance company and your travel agent/ flight booking office.
Traveller Require: Traveller must carry a valid travel document i.e. Passport, visa, Re-entry Permit etc. Nepal Adventure Point is not responsible for lost or stolen personal items and also will not be responsible for any liability due to travel document. Once programmed is booked clients are requested to send us the following details 3 weeks before you arrival to Kathmandu.
Full Name as Passport:
Passport issue Date:
Passport Expiry Date:
Date of Birth:
Passport photo copy:
4 copy of passport size photos
Accommodation: Mardi Himal Peak climbing itinerary is a mixture of lodges and tents accommodations while you are on the mountain. Actually trek part we accommodate on teahouse lodges and has been chosen according their eco-friendliness, best location, hygiene and friendly nature. On climbing section will accommodate with comfortable two men camping tent, foam mattress. We maintain standard & comfort in every means with best of our knowledge, experiences and costs. All accommodations on trekking/climbing lodge & tent is based on twin share. We provide standard hotels in Kathmandu like hotel Manang/Marshyangdi or similar category with breakfast.
Meals: The meals are includes on this trip, mostly the buffet style breakfast will be provided in the Kathmandu hotel. Freshly cook food on full board basis will be provided both on trekking and climbing sections through the best provided lodges and during the climbing period, we provide basic Nepali dish but are high level of balance diet, hygiene and safety. Three meals will be provided both in lodges and during the camp. Each day dinner and breakfast will be provided in the same lodge/camp you spend the night. Lunch camp will be fixed on a pleasant surrounding…
Breakfast, Lunch and Dinner: Breakfast during the trek consists of most typical items. Eggs, toast, hash browns, corn flakes, muesli, oatmeal, pancakes and the local specialties of chapatti and Tibetan bread are all common menu items. Breakfast is accompanied by juice, coffee, tea, cocoa and other hot drinks.
Lunch and dinner options in the teahouses include a variety of choices. Soups (commonly tomato, vegetable, noodle, or hearty "Sherpa stew") and momos are excellent starters. Main courses like chicken and yak dishes, pastas, pizzas, and even fries are served alongside vegetable fried rice or noodles and Nepali specialties such as Dal Bhat (Rice and lentils). Be sure to save room for a dessert such as apple pie, chocolate cake, or "snickers pie"! Soft drinks, beer, and wine are also widely available, although they are priced at a premium the higher you trek.
Snacks: While the food in the mountains is excellent, it is nice to bring along a few of your favorite snacks and drink mixes to enjoy after a long day. We recommend that climbers bring 2 - 3 lbs of their absolute favorite snacks and comfort foods to have throughout the expedition.
Recommended snack items: dry salami, smoked salmon, Jerky (turkey, beef, fish), small cans of tuna fish, individually wrapped cheeses such as Laughing Cow or Baby Bell, crackers, bagels, candy bars, hard candies (Jolly Ranchers, Toffees, Life Savers), Gummy Bears, Sour candies (Sweet Tarts), cookies, dried fruit, nuts, energy bars, GORP mixes, and drink mixes (Gatorade/Kool-Aid).
Staffs: Believing that every successful trip has been possible because of the team work, Nepal Adventure Point employs experienced and trained Nepalese trekking/climbing guide and other staffs. On this peak climbing trip there will be trekking and climbing Sherpa guide, assistant guide will provide group above 5 trekkers and Sherpa porters or pack animal for luggage carrying (Each Sherpa carry 2 person luggage’s, maximum weight 30kgs) and other staffs as per requirement for the climbing section. This arrangement ensures that if anybody in the group is getting sick; the trip can still continue as we already planned. Nepal Adventure Point arrange the any Peak climbing trip even for single person but the cost bit high rather than there is more people, and include maximum of 12 peoples only.
Good care of Porters: Believing that the porters are important and impossible to complete the trip. We do not allow porters to carry exceeding 20 kgs in tea-house and 30kgs weight in camping trek. It is because of human being respect, their rights and against any exploitation on its operation. We provide good health insurance, good equipments, working training and of course good pay with lots of encouragements. We are working with porters progress of Nepal and other organizations concerning about the porters.
Responsible Tourism Concept: Nepal Adventure Point is taking concern of economy, social, environment and culture while running its trips. Our staffs are trained on this and try for minimum impact on the natural environment and native peoples. We try to support local economy by using their products, making aware and our clients will have to respect the local culture and traditions. We always try to make the areas more cleaner and friendly environments after we travel. This is possible by your understanding and our trained crews.
Health & Experience Required: You need very good stamina for a long day and climbing effort while you are climbing any trekking peaks. You can climb some of trekking peak without any climbing training or course and skills of using climbing equipment but knowledge on using equipment and previous experience would be helpful although not compulsory because a pre-ice climbing training is provided to you by our climbing Sherpa guide in base camp to make you skillful on using mountain climbing gears such as ropes, ice pick, harness, crampons. Normally, peak climbing usually requires normally 5-6 hours of walking everyday and some days even 8-10 hours- such as in summiting day. We suggest you to get prepared with about 10-12 kilometers of walking or jogging exercise every day before a month of your climbing trip, you are considering walking in high altitude and remote area for many days and around five hours most of the days. To join the any trekking peak climbing trip with a good chance of success, you must have: Lots of self-control, reasonable fitness and good stamina with sound health. It is very important that participants with pre-existing medical problems or conditions make these known to Nepal Adventure Point at the time of booking. Medical and evacuation expenses are the responsibility of her/him. It is also important that you better to consult with your doctor before you departure to your destination.
Acclimatization: Keep in mind that you will be passing above 5000m/16400ft and reaching at goal destination during the journey to the top of the desired Peak. Walking fast at such elevation could lead to medical complications (Acute Mountain Sickness) which could be serious. There is less oxygen compared to sea level in high-altitudes places. The higher, altitude will be the less oxygen in air. Your body needs a days to acclimatize to this environment, which is why we will stop a day rest in trails-head destination and the base camp. Although we provide information regarding AMS insurance, the only option for treatment is descending (evacuation). We advise that clients with known heart, lung or blood diseases, or clients over the age of 60 to discuss with their doctor before traveling with us. Symptoms of AMS include mild to severe headaches, dizziness, fever, loss of appetite or stomach pain; it is important to alert our staff if you are feeling poorly to ensure that illness does not progress.
There are ways of helping the acclimatization process, as described below:
- Walk slowly: there is plenty of time included in the itinerary so there is no need to rush, go at your own pace and enjoy the incredible views!
- Drinks lots of water: it is easier for your body to acclimatize when hydrated so drink water and avoid coffee, tea and alcohol.
- Consider taking Diamox (acetazolamide): before using this drug we recommend consulting a doctor and thoroughly researching the pros and cons.
Climbing Preparation: For the trekking you do not need to be a super athlete nor a mountaineer but a few weeks of training, yours pre exercise or some hiking arriving in Nepal, will suffice for this trekking. But you need enough preparation for the peak climbing. The climbing period for most of the trekking peaks rarely exceeds more than a few days so large amounts of base camp equipment are not usually required. Also, due to their relatively low altitude, the amount of climbing equipment required is proportionally less. In general, preparation for climbing these peak is little different from preparing for a trek. It won’t be more enjoyable spending the trip of a lifetime struggling to walk the trails every day when a little sensible preparation before you arrive would make the trails so much more rewarding and entire life time experience. So, it is important to be in physical good condition and mentally preparation before you start peak climbing or other mountains activities in Nepal. Try to spend an hour a day hiking and batter to take alpine climbing course in ice and rock, even our climbing guide give training about how to climb and practical some climbing technique. Most of day’s running a few miles is probably the best single physical activity, which will hand for your trip. While on the training period you may also be breaking in those new trekking boats that may otherwise give you blisters on the first day out on the trail. Who are planning to climb trekking peaks need to be physically very fit.
It will be good if you try to find out as much as possible about Nepal’s customs especially about the particular trip that you have planned before arriving. We are always happy to give you information with updated facts.
Packing list: While packing for trekking and Climbing, warm clothing is important to ensure comfort and safety, while non-essential gear such as a knife may simply come in handy. Here we have a suggested packing list to guide you in preparation:
Suggested Clothing and Equipment List
Plastic mountaineering boots.
Walking boots. For the trek you will need a pair of water repellent boots with ankle support.
Gaiters. A pair used to keep boots dry if walking through deep snow or on wet ground.
Wool and liner socks.
Trainers/sneakers. Can be used in camp/lodge in the evenings.
Waterproof jacket and trousers (Goretex or similar).
Long sleeve shirts (not cotton).
Mid to heavyweight fleece.
Sleevelessor body warmer type fleece.
Thermals or baselayer for top & bottom (merino wool or synthetic).
Medium weight down jacket (eg. Nuptse jacket by The North Face).
Warms mittens and/or gloves.
Wool or fleece hat.
Bandana or scarf.
Neoprene face mask.
Climbing equipment: Climbing harness with two slings, four screw gate carabiners, belay plate and 3m of 5mm static cord for prussiks [we have a limited number of “Harness packs” for rent, this includes harness (medium size Black Diamond Alpine BOD), ATC belaydevice with large carabiner, three screwgate carabiners, Petzl handle ascender, two slings and prussik cord. Please contact TMC office for further prices and availability]
Jumar ascender (eg. Petzl handle ascender).
Crampons (10 or 12 point general mountaineering type are the best).
Mountaineering ice axe with leash.
Sleeping mat (eg. Thermarest). On trek we provide everyone with one foam mat however we recommend two layers for maximum insulation and comfort.
Backpack large enough to carry water bottles, camera, lunch and extra clothing.
Stuff sacks for keeping your gear dry and organized.
Headtorch. Bring extra batteries.
Two water bottles (Nalgene wide mouth bottles are the best).
Sunscreen and lipsalve with a high SPF.
Water purification tablets (Pristine, Biox Acqua or Acqa Mira).
Trekking poles (Black Diamond with “Flick Lock” are best).
Camera with spare batteries and memory cards.
Travelling: Duffle bag or large backpack for your personal gear on the trek (carried by a porter). Bring a small combination padlock to secure the bag.
Travel clothes. You will need casual clothing for air travel days and time spent in Kathmandu.
Toiletry bag include toilet paper, soap, towel, toothbrush, etc.
Personal first aid kit:
Note: we provide a comprehensive group first aid kit but please bring personal medications and other items you might use regularly such as:
Any personal medications.
Blister treatment (Compeed patches are the best).
Analgesics (paracetamol, ibuprofen and aspirin).
Plasters and zinc oxide tape.
Baby wipes (optional).
Hand sanitizer (optional).
Trip Members' Responsibility: Trip members have the responsibility to select a trip appropriate to their abilities and interests. We are also happy to discuss the trip with you. Trip members are responsible for preparing for the trip by studying the detailed itinerary and for bringing the appropriate clothing and equipment as advised.
Travel Insurance: All participants in a Nepal Adventure Point trek must have travel insurance. This will protect you against the risk of comprehensive expenses which may result due to medical emergencies or accidents. This insurance should include air ambulance, helicopter rescue, and treatment costs. Please be noted that we don't arrange or sell insurance and it is best to arrange this in your home country.
Rescue and Emergency Evacuation: In the case of a serious sickness or a casualty, which we believe will not happen; you shall be rescued by a helicopter. Since you are entirely liable for all the expenses incurred in evacuation please make sure that it is covered by your insurance before assigning for it or be prepared to pay on your own after getting back in Kathmandu. If you have no communication equipments, ask your guide to arrange a runner to the nearest communication point and inform office about requirement of a helicopter. While asking for the helicopter, you are required to send name of the sick person and exact location from where helicopter can airlift you.
Note: Do not leave the place although you are getting better once you have ordered helicopter.
Spending Money: Every traveller is different and therefore spending money requirements will vary. Some travellers may drink more than others while other travellers like to purchase more souvenirs than most. Please consider your own spending habits when it comes to allowing for drinks, shopping and tipping.
Tipping: It's not compulsory but tipping the porters and guides is customary and always greatly appreciated. A rough guideline is US$ 5-7 per person a day for trekking and Climbing guide and US$ 4-6 per person a day for the team supporters, however if you wish to tip more that is always welcome.
Clients Feedback: We are not 100% but we do always committed to providing the best service to make complete satisfaction in order to maintain the best value what you have paid and expect. Your feedback are always welcome and appreciated; they provide valuable insight for us for future trips. We are happy to give you the opportunity to communicate openly about your thoughts and experiences with us. Please leave your feedback with us at the end the trip. Both your good and not so good comments will help us to make our service more effective and efficient in the future.